If ever a book title called my name, that title was Gourmet Meals in Crappy Little
Kitchens (CLK). I love to cook. I agree with the author that gourmet is about pairing the
best possible ingredients with some expertise and respect for the food rather than making
everything fancy. And I’m not altogether joking when I refer to the square foot of counter
space in my small kitchen.
The cutesiness in the recipe titles and overuse of crappy throughout the book may be a
bit overdone but please don’t let that put you off, because otherwise I loved this cookbook.
Real gourmet cooking designed for home cooks like you and me, using real food augmented by
only a few convenience food staples—such as canned tomatoes—to get fabulous
results. As the author promises, she has turned the restrictions of a CLK into a virtue rather
than a problem, resulting in a book full of chef quality recipes without the usual problems
I, as a home cook, have with most chef-written cookbooks—the apparent assumption that
you have worlds of time and space, all sorts of equipment, access to (and budget for) a
world of gourmet ingredients and a sous chef or two to help with the extra work.
The book begins with an overview of what Chef Schaertl means by gourmet food, followed by
an overview of CLK that includes some really helpful discussion of how to make the best use
of yours (such as what equipment and pantry staples you do and don’t need and why), before
moving on to an explanation of some of the gourmet cooking terms. The recipes themselves range
from appetizers through desserts. I’m still working my way through them, but so far I’ve got
to say that I particularly loved the broccoli and cheese soup and the grilled cheese and
tomato soup (see, I said gourmet doesn’t have to mean fancy), the salad dressings—several
of which I’ve tried, if not yet on her original salad recipes, and the jerk chicken. All of them
were loaded with flavor and very easy to make, even with the long ingredient list for the
chicken. Chef Schaertl writes very clear recipes and isn’t a slave to authenticity just for
the sake of authenticity—her Pad Thai doesn’t include tamarind, while I never saw a
salad in Greece whose dressing included mustard or anchovies. That should reassure those who
have limited access to ingredients, while you can’t argue with the very tasty results.
The title says this is about gourmet food for those with CLK, but honestly this is a
cookbook for anyone who’d like to serve up some gourmet food without sending their kitchen
and life into total upheaval to do it. And the best part is that once you’ve processed the
information in the introduction and worked enough with the recipes to get comfortable with
the techniques, you will have learned some essentials for gourmet cooking for the home cook
that you can go on to apply to other recipes on your own.
Highly recommended.